Pick a fall day, pack a lunch, check the bike and take a nice 25 mile ride along the Mohawk-Hudson Bikeway, part of the Canalway Trail,  a great paved, off-road pathway that extends from Cohoes to Schenectady. This article is adapted from Louis Rossi's Cycling Along The Canals of New York State.

However, it does follow the south shore of the Mohawk River and misses some important historic Erie Canal sites on the north shore. I’ll outline this option in this post and then later, describe a similar ride if you are comfortable riding on-road, that follows the newly designated Mohawk Towpath Byway, a new scenic byway that closely follows the original Erie Canal.  This can also be a nice fifty-mile round-trip which we’ll also describe in later posts.

So you’ll have to figure out car drops for this one way trip.  Probably the Visitor’s Center in Waterford is one option and somewhere within the Stockade Historic District for the other.

Start   Waterford's Canal Harbor Welcome Center

This new visitor’s center overlooks the harbor and the grand entrance to the present day NY State Barge Canal system. An additional short hike along the waterfront will bring you along side Lock 2 where, during the busy warm months of the year, you can see, up close, how a lock works.

Stop 1: Cohoes Harmony Mills District

Cycle west on Broad Street and then south on State Route 32. After crossing the bridge over the Mohawk take a right on Cortland Street which becomes North Mohawk Street.  It’s about two miles to the Harmony Mill District.

The first mill was erected in 1837 between the Erie Canal and the Mohawk River. Construction of other mill buildings followed. When completed in 1872, Harmony Mill #3 was the largest individual cotton factory in the world. Locals know the mill as "Mastodon Mill" because of the complete skeleton of a prehistoric mastodon discovered during construction of the building. A brochure containing a "Self Guided Tour: Harmony Mills Historic District" is available from the Spindle City Historical Society by phoning 518-237-7999.

Lock 18, a National Register of Historic Places site, is the best-preserved lock. It is easy to find being near the Cohoes Falls, just off Mohawk Street, before the turn up Manor Street to the Mohawk-Hudson Bikepath. Lock 18 brought the Erie Canal to an elevation of 188 feet above sea level. This was high enough to enable the canal to be carried over the Mohawk River on a stone aqueduct up ahead at Crescent

Stop 2: Cohoes Falls

Continue west on North Mohawk Street, turn right on Front Street, left on Cataract Street. Be sure not to miss the fall overlook-- it is at the intersection of Cataract and School Streets.  These falls were a sacred place to the Mohawk Indians.  Indian lore explains that the Mohawk Indian Hiawatha conceived of the Iroquois Confederation while meditating at this spot.  Since the Mohawk is the source of water for today’s canal locks, the falls can only be seen in full splendor during the spring.  In the autumn after a dry summer, all the water is diverted for canal usage, leaving the falls dry.

 

With a vertical drop of more than 70 feet, the Falls extends approximately 1000 feet across the Mohawk River between the City of Cohoes and the Town of Waterford. Water power provided by the falls was significant in the development of several large knitting mills that became leading manufacturers of cotton textiles, thus earning the name 'Spindle City' for the municipality.

Heading away from the falls, look for Manor Street. Make the left. After another short climb, you will come to the Bikeway. Turn right.  You will follow this excellent trail all the way to Schenectady.  

The Mohawk-Hudson Bikeway offers a beautiful ride along the Mohawk River and the Erie Barge Canal. Town parks in Colonie and Niskayuna are open to bicyclists. Also, there is a small park at the old Niskayuna rail depot and one at Canal Lock 7. Most of these spots offer water and restrooms but no food is available between Cohoes and Schenectady on this route.

This segment of Canalway Trail is built atop the roadbed of the Troy & Schenectady Railroad (opened in 1842). This railroad was built to connect the first railroad bridge across the Hudson River, at Troy, with the predecessors of the New York Central Railroad at Schenectady.  The plan was to place Troy astride this famous railroad route.  However, shortly afterward, the first railroad bridge at Albany was built — the railroad main line remained through Albany, and this little railroad to Troy became a branch line.  As you travel westward, you will see the close intertwining of canal history and railroad history.

Stop 3: Aqueduct/Rexford

Up ahead, along the Mohawk-Hudson Bikeway, you’ll find another small canal park just before Schenectady at Aqueduct/Rexford. Here, you can see portions of the Rexford Aqueduct which once carried the original Erie Canal across the Mohawk River to the south shore again.  This was one of the longest aqueducts ever built in New York (610 feet long with 14 arches) and it’s definitely worth a stop. This site is a popular spot for canoeists and scullers. There are a number of sculling boathouses and a commercial store, “The Boat House,” which rents canoes and offers sculling lessons. You may spot a local boat race as you cycle past.

The aqueduct was built of cut limestone in 1842  Remnants of the aqueduct foundation are visible alongside the State Route 146 Rexford Bridge over the Mohawk.

This view shows the two remaining towpath arches and the prism supports which are on the south side of the Mohawk River (the Niskayuna side ). Originally there were 14 arches and the aqueduct was 610 feet long. It remained in use until 1916 when the modern Barge Canal was opened. To accomodate the barge traffic on the Barge Canal the center arches were removed. Later in 1964 all but three ( these two and one on the Rexford side) of the remaining arches were dismantled . These stones were numbered and stored on the south side of the Mohawk River at Aqueduct Park. The piles of stone are along the old towpath, in the prism of the canal. The single remaining arch on the north side of the Mohawk River is near the Schenectady Yacht Club. Just beyond the aqueduct you can see a portion of the Route 146 Bridge which crosses over the Erie Canal / Mohawk River.

Stop 4: Historic Schenectady Stockade District

Proceed west on Schenectady County Route 10 (Aqueduct Road) which gradually turns southerly. Upon entering City of Schenectady limits the road bears right and becomes Maxon Road. At Erie Boulevard intersection, watching for traffic, take a left and follow the path of the original Erie Canal. Take a right after passing under the railroad bridge onto Union Street. You are in the Stockade. Cruise around and stop here and there to explore the community and its architecture.

A 17th century Dutch settlement, founded by Arendt Van Curler in 1661, located at the junction of the Binnekill and Mohawk River. Burned in 1690 by the French and allied Native Americans, the area was rebuilt with help from Albany settlers and Mohawks. The Erie Canal made this area an island between the canal (now Erie Blvd.) and the Mohawk River. The Stockade became New York State's first National Register Historic District in 1965 and retains the ambiance of an early colonial village.

Aqueduct by dennieorson       Stockade by jeeptick 

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"Enjoy great scenery, fascinating history, and unparalleled cycling along the 365-mile Erie Canalway Trail. The paved and stone dust trail follows both active and historic sections of the Erie Canal..."  So says the web site for The Erie Canalway National Heritage Corridor Commission.

The group lists resources available for cyclists.  They say:

We also recommend CYCLING ALONG THE CANALS OF NEW YORK STATE (2nd edition) by Louis Rossi, which includes over 1,000 miles of rides along New York’s canals; 208 pages; fifty photos, 25 maps; extensive resource section.

 The demand for Louis Rossi's book has been strong this spring and summer.  Copies can be ordered online or found at numerous venues along the Erie Canal.

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photo  from sailorbill

In our car-focused society, using railroads to support our cycling trips is not common.  Instead, we struggle to leave cars in strategic spots and spend a lot of time coming and going with our autos.

When we were preparing Cycling Along The Canals of New York State, we looked at buses and trains to get to or from the route and found that Amtrak, which follows the Erie Canal, was an option.  For example, you can board in Albany and depending on how many days you have to cycle, can get off at Utica, Syracuse, Rochester, or Buffalo (or many intermediate stations). 

If you plan to check your bike as luggage, Amtrak has this advice:

Tips for successfully packing your bicycle:
    •    Check your bicycle at the station at least an hour before departure.
    •    You may bring your own box or purchase one at the station. Bicycle boxes (new or used) are also usually available for purchase at staffed stations that accept checked baggage for $15/box. Boxes are 69 x 41 x 8.5 inches (175 x 104 x 22 centimeters). Call ahead for details and to make sure that boxes are available. Local bicycle shops also may be able to provide you with boxes. After your trip, you may keep your box and use it again if it is in good condition.
    •    Bicycles usually must be partially disassembled: Loosen and turn the handlebars sideways, and remove the pedals. Both wheels must remain in the forks. Nothing may protrude from the box or make the box bulge. Nothing except the bicycle may be placed in the box.
    •    Bring your own tools. It may be helpful to disassemble and reassemble your bike before your trip to avoid any surprises. Some parts, especially pedals, may be especially difficult to remove.
    •    You may also use a container especially designed for transporting bicycles. Such containers must have handles and must be fully closed and latched, with no portion of the bike exposed.
    •    Attach your name and address to the box.

In Canada, just north of the Erie Canal area , there are some wonderful bike train options for cyclists who want to explore the Niagara region.  A recent article said:
“This summer, the initiative connects Toronto with destinations across Ontario, providing cyclists of all abilities easy access to the Greenbelt, wine and culinary regions, and northern lakes and forests. As well, there are off-the-beaten-path villages, world-renowned natural and historical sites, and thousands of kilometres of recreational trails and on-road cycling routes.” (Read the whole article)

These two rail options are just examples of what bike advocates hope will be more and more mass transit options to support bike riding.  What are your suggestions for places to use railroads or metro systems as part of a bike tour?

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This is a flat ride of twenty-five miles from Waterford, New York to Schuylerville along a historic canal.  There are some traffic situations with good bike lanes. (taken from Cycling Along The Canals of New York State)

How To Get There

Waterford is about 11 miles north of Albany. If you take I-787, go NY 32/Saratoga Street to downtown. Look for signs to the Canal Park, at Canal Lock 2. There is good parking here.

Background

The Champlain Canal was built to connect the Hudson River, which flows south to the Atlantic, with Lake Champlain which flows north into the Saint Lawrence River. The history of the Champlain Canal is closely linked with that of the Erie Canal. Both were begun in 1817, soon after peace came to a territory that had known brutal warfare for over a century. Both followed unsuccessful attempts by private companies to construct navigational improvements. At just 60 miles in length, the Champlain Canal opened in 1823, two years earlier than the Erie. Somehow, the Champlain never seemed to "get respect." Perhaps that was because a canal linking the northern end of Lake Champlain and the Saint Lawrence River, all in Canada, was not completed until 1858. Perhaps it was because of America's fascination with the opening and settlement of the West. In any case, the Champlain, like the Erie, was a vast commercial success. Also like the Erie, and important to us here, is the role the route plays in linking together much of early American history.

Back in the early 1800s, the first Champlain Canal was built parallel to but entirely separate from the Hudson River. The original Champlain Canal followed the west shore of the Hudson northward from Waterford in Saratoga County and crossed to the east shore in Washington County just north of Schuylerville. It followed the east shore northward to Fort Edward. Efforts are being made to open the old towpath for recreational use. It is largely intact, waiting to be redeveloped. You will see many signs of the old Champlain Canal alignment as you pedal north.

The Ride

A great start is to look over some of the exhibits at the Canal Park. Once you're ready to ride, go back to the center of Waterford and take 3rd Street which is Bike Route 9." Bike "9," a continuous route from New York City to the Canadian border near Montreal, is your best guide between Waterford and Whitehall. The segment between Waterford and Whitehall is being developed into a "scenic byway"by Saratoga and Washington counties. Open segments of the old Champlain Canal towpaths can be found in Waterford, Schuylerville and Fort Edward. The Champlain "Barge Canal" which is open for use the entire distance serves the entire route.

When riding any of the routes along the Erie Canal or the Champlain Canal outlined in Cycling The Canals of New York State, it’s hard to make it by the ubiquitous Stewart’s shops.  They are located about every hamlet or village in upstate New York and carry all the hydration and carb-loading goodies a cyclist needs. 

I remember a trip I took with Louis Rossi, author of the fore-mentioned book, on a hot June day.  We stopped at one about an hour into the ride for a sports drink and finished off with some ice cream at another one. 

Here’s what the writer of the Adirondack Almanac blog says about these convenience stores:
“Headquartered in Saratoga Springs, Stewart's shops have spread across the park since the company's early years in the 1940s. Today, the shops have become a major social and commercial focus for more than twenty Adirondack communities: their bulletin boards and picnic and cafe tables a wellspring of local information, gossip, lore, and right-of-center opinion. Stewart's employees own one third of the privately-held company. But the pride of Stewart's Shops is their award-winning fresh and local dairy products: gathered from 50 farms around its Greenfield plant, bottled the same day and available to customers within 48 hours. As well, the company's many inventive ice cream flavors remain popular year after year, despite the ill-advised discontinuance of lemon meringue in 2002...”

Nearly every part of the country has collections of convenience stores that are a welcome oasis for a famished cyclist.  What’s your favorite?

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Even though the temperature this morning was zero, the days are getting longer and one's thoughts turn to spring/summer outings.  One of my objectives up ahead is to bike some loops along the Erie Canal -- as we describe in Cycling Along The Canals of New York State. 

Since the canal is linear, it is not always easy to plan a loop - and one gets stuck with an out and back - or leaving a car up ahead etc.  However, one area that lends itself to some nice loop options is between Albany and Schenectady.  Here's how Lou Rossi describes it in the book:

"My favorite is a loop between NY 146 (Rexford-Aqueduct Bridge) and NY 32 (Broadway between Cohoes and Waterford). These bridges are about fifteen miles apart making a loop of about fifty miles a practical option. You can start anywhere on the loop — in Cohoes or Waterford on the east end, at the historic Niskayuna Depot or Vischer Ferry in the middle, at Aqueduct or Rexford on the west end, or another convenient point of your choice. Take the Mohawk-Hudson Scenic Bikeway, which extends the entire way along the south shore of the Mohawk River, in one direction and return on the on-road Mohawk Towpath Byway, which extends the entire way along the north shore of the Mohawk River. You will see all the Erie Canal sites between Cohoes and Waterford, and Rexford/Aqueduct, and many other interesting spots in between. .."